Video: Reel Rock 8

One of the things I look forward to each year is the release of Reel Rock. Can they beat Honnold 3.0? - which is one of the best climbing movies ever? Oooh the anticipation...

You can download their movies here... http://reelrocktour.com

 

Gear: Ueli's Kit Room

Check out Ueli's secret kit room HERE as EPIC TV get a sneak view of the Swiss machines gear store... (How many shoes does one man need? Clearly it's X+1)

 

Training: Keeping on track

If you recall, on top of skill based trianing, my fitness goals involved 1) Increase my VO2 max 2) Increase Endurance and aerobic threshold and 3) Put on muscle so my body has fuel to cannibalise at altitude.

It is important to keep your training in check and on track. Many athletes strategically place 'B' priority races within their training calendar - they act as test pieces. Whilst I'd love to go out climbing more often, it's not practical, so some Urban Trianing is in order...

Hence, in line with these goals I've just signed up for

1. a x-country ultra marathon at the end of Dec'13
2. An Ironman 70.3 in April'14
3. I've arranged a 'full-on' trip to the Alps in the summer
4. and to top it off a full Ironman in Sept'14 (my first full distance triathlon)

Whilst completing a long distance triathlon does not mean I can go out and climb at high altitude, it does give me something to aim for, and will keep my training on track. Further it will help with my endurance thresholds, core strength, and will also get me out swimming, biking and running (a lot).

My Training schedule is pretty much sorted, and I'll share the 12-24 hour a week suffer feast with you shortly...

 

Learning from others mistakes is important

I have always known that mountains can be dangerous, and a momentary lack of attention can ruin the happiness of the life time. As such I try and learn about accidents secondhand as opposed to firsthand! Rock and Ice have a special column entitled 'accidents'. Here, you will find information about those who have met with misfortune and gravity.

This is certainly not voyeuristic, by analysing the accidents one can gain more experience and can otherwise be afforded.

For a compendium of accidents in North American mountaineering please go HERE

Climb Safe!

 

Video: World Premier - The Last Great Climb

The magnificent folks at EpicTV are about to release 'The last great climb' the story of a group of adventure climbers attempting the first ascent of the Northeast ridge of Ulvetanna Peak (6, 562ft) in Antarctica. The team battles the cold, the terrain, and massive ridges in this visually stunning epic...

Don't miss out - world premier 15.11 - EpicTV Home of the Best Original Extreme Sports Web Series

 

 

Video: The Explorer

Astronaut Buzz Aldrin talks about why we explore...

 

Training Tips from Ueli Steck

It is difficult to imagine someone with greater fitness than Ueli Steck. According to Ueli, the key to training can be summed up as...

1. Uphill running - 4x to 6x a week
2. Core strength Training
3. Weight training - 3x a week
4. Go climbing - 3x a week

Want more specifics? Here is just a selection of his training...
FOCUS: ALPINE ENDURANCE (PRE-EIGER RECORD)

• MONDAY 

  1 hour running–Intensity 2 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour stabilization (core) training / slideshow
• TUESDAY 

  2 hours running–Intensity 2 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
• WEDNESDAY
  
4 hours climbing in the gym / 2 hours running–Intensity 1 / 1/2 hour stretching / slideshow
• THURSDAY
  
4 hours climbing in the gym / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
• FRIDAY
  
1.5 hours running–Intensity 1 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
• SATURDAY 

  3.5 hours running–Intensity 4 / 1 hour stretching / slideshow
• SUNDAY (REST DAY)
  
Climbing with my wife 4 hours / 1 hour stretching

FOCUS: YOSEMITE CLIMBING (2010, WEEK 17)

• MONDAY 

  Run: 12 kilometers/1,000 meters gain–Intensity 2
• TUESDAY
  
Climbing outdoors: 3 pitches of 5.13d, 2 of 5.13a, 1 of 5.11d / 1 hour weight training / 1 hour stretching
• WEDNESDAY
  
Climbing outdoors: 4 pitches of 5.14a, 2 of 5.13a / Run: easy 12 kilometers/800 meters gain–Intensity 1
• THURSDAY 

  Run: Eiger Lauper Route, running and climbing from Grindelwald, 20 kilometers/3,075 meters gain–Intensity 3
• FRIDAY (REST DAY)
• SATURDAY 

  Climbing in the gym: 4 pitches of 5.13b, 3 of 5.12d, 5 of 5.12b, 6 of 5.11d / 1 hour weight training / 1 hour stretching
• SUNDAY
  
Run: 18 kilometers/1,700 meters gain–Intensity 2

FOCUS: GENERAL ENDURANCE (2010, WEEK 33)

• MONDAY (REST DAY)
• TUESDAY 

  3-run series, total 27 kilometers/ 5,100 meters gain–Intensity 3 / 1 hour stretching
• WEDNESDAY
  
Climbing gym: 3 pitches of 5.13b, 4 of 5.13a, 6 of 5.12c, 4 of 5.11d / 1 hour stretching
• THURSDAY
  
Climbing gym: 3 pitches 5.13b, 5 of 5.13a, 6 of 5.12b, 6 of 5.11d / 1 hour stretching
• FRIDAY
  
3-run series, total 27 kilometers/ 5,100 meters gain–Intensity 3 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training
• SATURDAY
  
Climbing outdoors: 2 pitches 5.13d, 1 of 5.12c, 3 of 5.11d
• SUNDAY (REST DAY)
  
Drive to Dolomites

FOCUS: HIMALAYA (2011, WEEK 2)

• MONDAY
  
1 hour running–Intensity 2 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour stabilization training / slideshow
• TUESDAY
  
2 hours running—Intensity 2 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
• WEDNESDAY
  
4 hours climbing in the gym / 2 hours running–Intensity 1 / 1/2 hour stretching / slideshow
• THURSDAY
  
4 hours climbing in the gym / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
• FRIDAY (REST DAY)
  
1.5 hours running–Intensity 1 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
• SATURDAY
  
3.5 hours running–Intensity 4 / 1 hour stretching / slideshow
• SUNDAY (REST DAY)
  
Climbing with my wife 4 hours / 1 hour stretching
  
• 
  

EpicTV Video: "Ueli Steck - Training for Everest Without Oxygen 2013"
Upskill Climbing Blog by Lee Cujes