Training: Keeping on track

If you recall, on top of skill based trianing, my fitness goals involved 1) Increase my VO2 max 2) Increase Endurance and aerobic threshold and 3) Put on muscle so my body has fuel to cannibalise at altitude.

It is important to keep your training in check and on track. Many athletes strategically place 'B' priority races within their training calendar - they act as test pieces. Whilst I'd love to go out climbing more often, it's not practical, so some Urban Trianing is in order...

Hence, in line with these goals I've just signed up for

1. a x-country ultra marathon at the end of Dec'13
2. An Ironman 70.3 in April'14
3. I've arranged a 'full-on' trip to the Alps in the summer
4. and to top it off a full Ironman in Sept'14 (my first full distance triathlon)

Whilst completing a long distance triathlon does not mean I can go out and climb at high altitude, it does give me something to aim for, and will keep my training on track. Further it will help with my endurance thresholds, core strength, and will also get me out swimming, biking and running (a lot).

My Training schedule is pretty much sorted, and I'll share the 12-24 hour a week suffer feast with you shortly...

 

Learning from others mistakes is important

I have always known that mountains can be dangerous, and a momentary lack of attention can ruin the happiness of the life time. As such I try and learn about accidents secondhand as opposed to firsthand! Rock and Ice have a special column entitled 'accidents'. Here, you will find information about those who have met with misfortune and gravity.

This is certainly not voyeuristic, by analysing the accidents one can gain more experience and can otherwise be afforded.

For a compendium of accidents in North American mountaineering please go HERE

Climb Safe!

 

Video: World Premier - The Last Great Climb

The magnificent folks at EpicTV are about to release 'The last great climb' the story of a group of adventure climbers attempting the first ascent of the Northeast ridge of Ulvetanna Peak (6, 562ft) in Antarctica. The team battles the cold, the terrain, and massive ridges in this visually stunning epic...

Don't miss out - world premier 15.11 - EpicTV Home of the Best Original Extreme Sports Web Series

 

 

Video: The Explorer

Astronaut Buzz Aldrin talks about why we explore...

 

Training Tips from Ueli Steck

It is difficult to imagine someone with greater fitness than Ueli Steck. According to Ueli, the key to training can be summed up as...

1. Uphill running - 4x to 6x a week
2. Core strength Training
3. Weight training - 3x a week
4. Go climbing - 3x a week

Want more specifics? Here is just a selection of his training...
FOCUS: ALPINE ENDURANCE (PRE-EIGER RECORD)

• MONDAY 

  1 hour running–Intensity 2 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour stabilization (core) training / slideshow
• TUESDAY 

  2 hours running–Intensity 2 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
• WEDNESDAY
  
4 hours climbing in the gym / 2 hours running–Intensity 1 / 1/2 hour stretching / slideshow
• THURSDAY
  
4 hours climbing in the gym / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
• FRIDAY
  
1.5 hours running–Intensity 1 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
• SATURDAY 

  3.5 hours running–Intensity 4 / 1 hour stretching / slideshow
• SUNDAY (REST DAY)
  
Climbing with my wife 4 hours / 1 hour stretching

FOCUS: YOSEMITE CLIMBING (2010, WEEK 17)

• MONDAY 

  Run: 12 kilometers/1,000 meters gain–Intensity 2
• TUESDAY
  
Climbing outdoors: 3 pitches of 5.13d, 2 of 5.13a, 1 of 5.11d / 1 hour weight training / 1 hour stretching
• WEDNESDAY
  
Climbing outdoors: 4 pitches of 5.14a, 2 of 5.13a / Run: easy 12 kilometers/800 meters gain–Intensity 1
• THURSDAY 

  Run: Eiger Lauper Route, running and climbing from Grindelwald, 20 kilometers/3,075 meters gain–Intensity 3
• FRIDAY (REST DAY)
• SATURDAY 

  Climbing in the gym: 4 pitches of 5.13b, 3 of 5.12d, 5 of 5.12b, 6 of 5.11d / 1 hour weight training / 1 hour stretching
• SUNDAY
  
Run: 18 kilometers/1,700 meters gain–Intensity 2

FOCUS: GENERAL ENDURANCE (2010, WEEK 33)

• MONDAY (REST DAY)
• TUESDAY 

  3-run series, total 27 kilometers/ 5,100 meters gain–Intensity 3 / 1 hour stretching
• WEDNESDAY
  
Climbing gym: 3 pitches of 5.13b, 4 of 5.13a, 6 of 5.12c, 4 of 5.11d / 1 hour stretching
• THURSDAY
  
Climbing gym: 3 pitches 5.13b, 5 of 5.13a, 6 of 5.12b, 6 of 5.11d / 1 hour stretching
• FRIDAY
  
3-run series, total 27 kilometers/ 5,100 meters gain–Intensity 3 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training
• SATURDAY
  
Climbing outdoors: 2 pitches 5.13d, 1 of 5.12c, 3 of 5.11d
• SUNDAY (REST DAY)
  
Drive to Dolomites

FOCUS: HIMALAYA (2011, WEEK 2)

• MONDAY
  
1 hour running–Intensity 2 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour stabilization training / slideshow
• TUESDAY
  
2 hours running—Intensity 2 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
• WEDNESDAY
  
4 hours climbing in the gym / 2 hours running–Intensity 1 / 1/2 hour stretching / slideshow
• THURSDAY
  
4 hours climbing in the gym / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
• FRIDAY (REST DAY)
  
1.5 hours running–Intensity 1 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
• SATURDAY
  
3.5 hours running–Intensity 4 / 1 hour stretching / slideshow
• SUNDAY (REST DAY)
  
Climbing with my wife 4 hours / 1 hour stretching
  
• 
  

EpicTV Video: "Ueli Steck - Training for Everest Without Oxygen 2013"
Upskill Climbing Blog by Lee Cujes

The Brilliant Momment

All your preparations, all the early mornings and later nights, this will lead you to a place you had only imagined. Be bold. Reach for new experiences. Find The Brilliant Moment.

The Brilliant Moment by Mountain Hardwear

 

 

How many 8000m peaks are there exactly?

I was recently asked by my daughter how many 8000m peaks are there? "Fourteen" I confidently responded, and wheeled off the names, Everest, K2... Well honey, daddy was wrong!

Currently, fourteen peaks are internationally recognised as above 8000m (26,250ft). However, that is about to change... You see, depending on the definition of a 'mountain' (300m or 500m of prominence?) there could be 23 peaks in the world which could be classified as above eight-thousand metres.

Recently the UIAA, which is affiliated to the International Olympic Committee, had initiated the ‘Agura’ project to identify and recognise new peaks above 8,000 metres. The Agura project has now recognised five additional peaks in Nepal and one at the China-Pakistan border as new peaks above 8,000 metres.

The six peaks recognised by the Agura project are Yarlung Khang - 8,505m (also known as Kanchenjunga West), Kanchenjunga Central - 8,473m (Nepal-India border), Kanchenjunga South - 8,476m (Nepal-India border), Lhotse Middle - 8,413m (Nepal-China border), Lhotse Shar - 8,400m (Nepal-China border) and Broad Peak Central - 8,047m (Pakistan-China border).

Final ratification may take a little longer than expected as according to the Himalayan Times, Nepal (and we assume all the other countries) will have to wait for one more year to receive the final international recognition of the additional five peaks it is looking to add as above 8000 metres because Pakistan Alpine Club and Indian Mountaineering Foundation are yet to hold their annual general meetings. However, it looks set that we will soon be talking about the 20 tallest mountains in the world!

As Gearcaster points out - What will this do to all of those who have already climbed the 14 tallest peaks, both with and without oxygen? Will Reinhold Messner or Edurne Pasaban come back to complete another 5? Nepalese officials say that the addition of the new 8000 meter peaks should not challenge records set by past climbers. If someone wants to climb the 14 highest mountains, they must still climb the original peaks - even though some of the new peaks are higher?

This is certainly an interesting move for those of us interested in High Adventures, for now there are more adventures to be had!

Future of Climbing in Nepal: New Mountains and Tighter Controls - the GearCaster

Why Nepal May Open 5 New Peaks Above 8000m To Mountaineers