... At 6856m Ama Dablam is not particularly high by Himalayan standards, but it is undoubtedly one of the most stunning peaks in the Himalaya and one of the most impressive looking mountains in the world. Situated in the heart of Everest's Khumbu Region, it overlooks the famous Thyangboche Monastery on the well-worn path to Everest Base Camp and is admired by thousands of trekkers who walk past it every year.
Since its first ascent in 1961 by an Anglo-American-New Zealand team, Ama Dablam has been climbed frequently and by many different routes. As you might expect for such a mountain, some of these routes are of the highest order of difficulty.
By far the most popular route is the original line of ascent, the South West Ridge. This gives a fine and varied climb, sustained at a reasonable level of difficulty and with good camp platforms at strategic points. The climbing provides interest on rock, snow and ice and is a realistic proposition for mountaineers with experience in the Alps on mixed routes of Alpine ‘Difficile’. These days, fixed ropes are in place on the route, though they should of course be treated with caution. There is some objective danger from stone fall, and in recent years, teams have become more sceptical about how solid the huge hanging serac, or ‘dablam’, above Camp 3 is.
Rock climbing on Granite up to British Grade ‘Severe’ and 'HVS' is encountered on the route... And the infamous ‘bowling alley’ is a steep couloir, with 80-degree snow and ice. Even for those used to this level of technical difficulty in the Alps, this can feel extremely tough with the added strain of carrying a big rucksack... There can be some excellent sections of snow ice high on the route, so a good compromise for a more aesthetic climbing experience, is to climb with an axe and hammer, but have one leashless, to make it easier to also manage the jumar on the fixed rope.
Fancy a go?... Here is something to whet your appetite
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