Ueli Steck is a phenom. He is simply one of the most exciting and talented mountaineers ever - there I've said it. But is he a revolution?
The evidence is gathering...
Over the last two years Ueli has brought his brand of light and fast climbing to the himalaya. In 2009 he climbed both Gasherbrum II, and Makalu solo; In 2011 his solo ascent of Shishapangma's south face in 10:30 hours followed 18 days later with a solo ascent of Cho Oyu was a sign of things to come; His summit of Everest without supplementary oxygen in 2012 was nothing short of a breath of fresh air, especially when compared to the growing controversial context of 'climbing tourism' (a topic we will no doubt explore later on). Although Ueli's post climb nonchalance ("it was easy" & "climbing with oxygen is cheating") have made me reassess my own, 20 year in the making, plans to climb the peak... [ed. thanks for that Ueli!]
However, it his on going Everst project with Simone Moro that has me on the edge of my seat. The fact they don't have a specific route, and will select one based on their acclimatisation, and the conditions they find on the hill, is simply thrilling! It is a throw-back to the very earliest days of climbing where any beta was frowned upon (or at least you had some 'penalty sack' applied if it was even suspected).
What is exciting is the possibility of what the future holds for Everest. Just when my heart had sank and all seemed lost for the hill with the much publicised picture of human snake making it's way insidiously up the Lohtse face comes to mind, a new bold dream of what is possible at high altitude is emerging.
With Ueli's skill and Simone penchant for all things winters, anything is possible! Could someone be so audacious that they would attempt the aptly named 'fantasy ridge?' (I doubt it). But whatever the route, I am sure it will be one of the most exciting things in Himalayian climbing for decades, and Irish them luck.
But I ask again... does this make him a revolutionary?
Ueli's ethos of climbing 'Light, fast and high' is nothing more than the subtitle of a 24 year old (seminal) book by Mark Twight. Mark's book was unlike anything we had ever read, written or seen before. His lack of respect for health and safety rules (see how he pimps his MSR bottle) reminded me of my childhood misadventures, where broken bones and teeth were more common place... So, whilst his backless jackets have still not caught on with climbing world (why?), Mark's ideas of extreme alpinism surely have.
Ueli is the talented embodiment of Mark's ideas, and has brought new life to the world of alpinism and high altitude mountaineering, but a revolution in this regard he is not - instead Ueli is mountaineerings answer to 'Charles Darwin', he is evolution! Every twenty years or so there comes along a climber who extends the limit, sets the bar, and this is Ueli. Posibly the most well rounded alpinist/climber/mountaineer in the worldtoday. So, whilst the likes of Jeremy Clarkson believe the time as come to find the 'easiest way to climb mount Everest' Ueli and his partners are most likely going to do the exact opposite. and it is this willingness to dare to dream, to challenge what the world deems possible that optimises everything good about alpinism.
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