Up close and personal with Ama Dablam

Paul Davis's footage, taken from a helicopter circling the summit, provides an excellent perspective of the mountains standing and exposure. 

Ama Dablam - clips from Paul Davis on Vimeo.

Exposed on Ama Dablam

Ten years ago, Lee Z Berg and photographer Christian Als stood at the foot of the majestic mountain Ama Dablam (6856m) in the Everest Region of Nepal. A mountain that is often described as one of the most spectacular mountains in the world. Not for its height, but for its beauty, aesthetics and its exposure. A dream was born, and now they are back with the goal of standing on the summit.

This is one of the best short films about climbing Ama Dablam. Wonderful cinematography by Christian, all shot on a Canon 5D.

More Details christianals.com

 

The Swiss Machine...

"The future of cutting edge Alpinism is how fast and how light you can go in Alpine Style. If you are able to move fast then you don't need a lot of equipment. You are so light, that you can really push the limits"... Ueli Steck

 

Shattered.

After you have given your all, is there anything left?

A film by Tyler Stableford

Boston Marathon Attack

If you had ever become disillusioned with the state of the world you just had to look at the crowd at a Marathon - who would cheer on complete strangers, no matter what sex, ethnicity or religion - to see that there is still genuine unconditional warmth in the world. Thus, it comes as a cruel irony that such a heart warming collective would become the targets of terrorism.

From all at DaddyGoneClimbing our thoughts and best wishes are with all those impacted by today's tragic events.

 

Time for some high adventures of my own...

Possibly one of the most beautiful mountains in the world (?). Standing proud at 22,494ft Ama Dablam "like the Matterhorn in the Swiss Alps, epitomises all that is grand about the mountains" and dominates the Khumbu. Ever since I first set eyes on this most prestigious of peaks I have wanted to climb this mountain, so I am looking forward to our (early) winter ascent. My plan is to climb it semi Alpine style (as described by Tom Briggs below). It will be a welcome return to the Himalaya, and I am looking forward to sharing my preparations.

At 13yrs old I could just about climb the stairs...

US teenager Kai Lightner (aged 13) just climbed his first 8c+ just a few days after climbing his first 8b+... I can't wait to see what he does next week! possibly sending Action Directe? Talking of which, Wolfgang Güllich was climbing 8b at the ripe old age of 16... So, clearly the future looks bright for Sports Climbing.

COLD - Gasherbrum II first winter ascent

Cory Richards, Simone Moro, and Denis Urubko - a little more to the story behind 'Cold' by Cory Richards

Ueli Steck and Simone Moro announce their plans to attempt something 'different'

http://www.epictv.com/ Mt Everest News - Professional alpinists Ueli Steck and Simone Moro announce their plans to attempt a 'different' route on Mt Everest ...

Ueli Steck - A Himalayian revolution in the making...

Ueli Steck is a phenom. He is simply one of the most exciting and talented mountaineers ever - there I've said it. But is he a revolution?

The evidence is gathering...

Over the last two years Ueli has brought his brand of light and fast climbing to the himalaya. In 2009 he climbed both Gasherbrum II, and Makalu solo; In 2011 his solo ascent of Shishapangma's south face in 10:30 hours followed 18 days later with a solo ascent of Cho Oyu was a sign of things to come; His summit of Everest without supplementary oxygen in 2012 was nothing short of a breath of fresh air, especially when compared to the growing controversial context of 'climbing tourism' (a topic we will no doubt explore later on). Although Ueli's post climb nonchalance ("it was easy" & "climbing with oxygen is cheating") have made me reassess my own, 20 year in the making, plans to climb the peak... [ed. thanks for that Ueli!]

However, it his on going Everst project with Simone Moro that has me on the edge of my seat. The fact they don't have a specific route, and will select one based on their acclimatisation, and the conditions they find on the hill, is simply thrilling! It is a throw-back to the very earliest days of climbing where any beta was frowned upon (or at least you had some 'penalty sack' applied if it was even suspected).

What is exciting is the possibility of what the future holds for Everest. Just when my heart had sank and all seemed lost for the hill with the much publicised picture of human snake making it's way insidiously up the Lohtse face comes to mind, a new bold dream of what is possible at high altitude is emerging.

With Ueli's skill and Simone penchant for all things winters, anything is possible! Could someone be so audacious that they would attempt the aptly named 'fantasy ridge?' (I doubt it). But whatever the route, I am sure it will be one of the most exciting things in Himalayian climbing for decades, and Irish them luck.

But I ask again... does this make him a revolutionary?

Ueli's ethos of climbing 'Light, fast and high' is nothing more than the subtitle of a 24 year old (seminal) book by Mark Twight. Mark's book was unlike anything we had ever read, written or seen before. His lack of respect for health and safety rules (see how he pimps his MSR bottle) reminded me of my childhood misadventures, where broken bones and teeth were more common place... So, whilst his backless jackets have still not caught on with climbing world (why?), Mark's ideas of extreme alpinism surely have.

Ueli is the talented embodiment of Mark's ideas, and has brought new life to the world of alpinism and high altitude mountaineering, but a revolution in this regard he is not - instead Ueli is mountaineerings answer to 'Charles Darwin', he is evolution! Every twenty years or so there comes along a climber who extends the limit, sets the bar, and this is Ueli. Posibly the most well rounded alpinist/climber/mountaineer in the worldtoday. So, whilst the likes of Jeremy Clarkson believe the time as come to find the 'easiest way to climb mount Everest' Ueli and his partners are most likely going to do the exact opposite. and it is this willingness to dare to dream, to challenge what the world deems possible that optimises everything good about alpinism.

Follow the NO2 Expedition http://daily.epictv.com/ or by subscribing to EpicTV’s YouTube channel.

 Ueli Steck website

"It may be freezing cold but at least it's still windy"

 

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In the beginning...

...there was the word". Now if anyone remembers that channel 4 (UK) programme, I just hope that this blog will be slightly better than that. Oh well here goes...

The aim here is to capture the world of alpine and high altitude climbing (or related topics), including my own preparations for some up and coming 'high adventures'. I'll be discussing gear, skills, resources, thoughts, etc etc... I hope you get something from this.

All the best.

Rob.