Training Tips from Ueli Steck

It is difficult to imagine someone with greater fitness than Ueli Steck. According to Ueli, the key to training can be summed up as...

1. Uphill running - 4x to 6x a week
2. Core strength Training
3. Weight training - 3x a week
4. Go climbing - 3x a week

Want more specifics? Here is just a selection of his training...
FOCUS: ALPINE ENDURANCE (PRE-EIGER RECORD)

• MONDAY 

  1 hour running–Intensity 2 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour stabilization (core) training / slideshow
• TUESDAY 

  2 hours running–Intensity 2 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
• WEDNESDAY
  
4 hours climbing in the gym / 2 hours running–Intensity 1 / 1/2 hour stretching / slideshow
• THURSDAY
  
4 hours climbing in the gym / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
• FRIDAY
  
1.5 hours running–Intensity 1 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
• SATURDAY 

  3.5 hours running–Intensity 4 / 1 hour stretching / slideshow
• SUNDAY (REST DAY)
  
Climbing with my wife 4 hours / 1 hour stretching

FOCUS: YOSEMITE CLIMBING (2010, WEEK 17)

• MONDAY 

  Run: 12 kilometers/1,000 meters gain–Intensity 2
• TUESDAY
  
Climbing outdoors: 3 pitches of 5.13d, 2 of 5.13a, 1 of 5.11d / 1 hour weight training / 1 hour stretching
• WEDNESDAY
  
Climbing outdoors: 4 pitches of 5.14a, 2 of 5.13a / Run: easy 12 kilometers/800 meters gain–Intensity 1
• THURSDAY 

  Run: Eiger Lauper Route, running and climbing from Grindelwald, 20 kilometers/3,075 meters gain–Intensity 3
• FRIDAY (REST DAY)
• SATURDAY 

  Climbing in the gym: 4 pitches of 5.13b, 3 of 5.12d, 5 of 5.12b, 6 of 5.11d / 1 hour weight training / 1 hour stretching
• SUNDAY
  
Run: 18 kilometers/1,700 meters gain–Intensity 2

FOCUS: GENERAL ENDURANCE (2010, WEEK 33)

• MONDAY (REST DAY)
• TUESDAY 

  3-run series, total 27 kilometers/ 5,100 meters gain–Intensity 3 / 1 hour stretching
• WEDNESDAY
  
Climbing gym: 3 pitches of 5.13b, 4 of 5.13a, 6 of 5.12c, 4 of 5.11d / 1 hour stretching
• THURSDAY
  
Climbing gym: 3 pitches 5.13b, 5 of 5.13a, 6 of 5.12b, 6 of 5.11d / 1 hour stretching
• FRIDAY
  
3-run series, total 27 kilometers/ 5,100 meters gain–Intensity 3 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training
• SATURDAY
  
Climbing outdoors: 2 pitches 5.13d, 1 of 5.12c, 3 of 5.11d
• SUNDAY (REST DAY)
  
Drive to Dolomites

FOCUS: HIMALAYA (2011, WEEK 2)

• MONDAY
  
1 hour running–Intensity 2 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour stabilization training / slideshow
• TUESDAY
  
2 hours running—Intensity 2 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
• WEDNESDAY
  
4 hours climbing in the gym / 2 hours running–Intensity 1 / 1/2 hour stretching / slideshow
• THURSDAY
  
4 hours climbing in the gym / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
• FRIDAY (REST DAY)
  
1.5 hours running–Intensity 1 / 1 hour stretching / 1 hour mental training / slideshow
• SATURDAY
  
3.5 hours running–Intensity 4 / 1 hour stretching / slideshow
• SUNDAY (REST DAY)
  
Climbing with my wife 4 hours / 1 hour stretching
  
• 
  

EpicTV Video: "Ueli Steck - Training for Everest Without Oxygen 2013"
Upskill Climbing Blog by Lee Cujes